Monday, January 21, 2013

Braies patterning, Part 1

Okay.  So, I actually started on working up a pattern for Edward's braies today.  Boy!!

Since some of the sites I have come across show a version of braies that are pretty much boxer shorts, I took a pair of Edward's elastic waisted shorts and drew off a pattern from them.  Epic fail.  The rise wasn't long enough.

Reference:  http://www.hrgalaska.org/braies.html

Then I took another look at some of the pages that I had been browsing for patterns and decided to work on the rectangular construction theory.  The seams were pulling in a bad place from side to side.  In addition to the pieces you see below I added in some triangular gussets to make sewing the rise panel to the legs easier.  Okay, got the waist, hip, and rise length correct, but the width of the rise panel caused some issues.

Photo from http://research.fibergeek.com/2011/06/21/quickdirty-braies/


Because he said that the rise panel was pulling in at the seam and was uncomfortable I have another thing I am going to try.  I am going to modify the thorsbjerg trouser pattern and mock it up to see what I get as it has a wider seat panel.  Looking at some of the sites and books it appears that the bagging that occurs in extant images of the braies could also occur here.  Once I get it mocked up and he tries them on I will post an update.

Friday, January 18, 2013

Researching 14th Century clothing

Well, another sewing project is in the works. My husband has been wanting to up the look for his 14th Century clothing so off to the races for me as I research the items that we both need to make this happen.

I figure I will start from the skin and work my way to the outer garments. That means starting with undergarments.

His list of garments includes: braies, chausses, shirt, pourpoint, and cotehardie. There will also be a coif and a hood to complete the look. That means plenty of research.

I started by trying to research patterns for the braies first. There are several different thoughts and pattern structures for this item. I will have to give in on the comfort condition of the braies and probably make them in the style of the "boxer short" version. He's the one that will be wearing them and will have to be comfortable. This item of clothing should not be too hard to tackle.

     14th century braies or underwear, from the Catalonia "Love Breviary"

The chausses, on the other hand, are a completely different matter. He flinched quite a bit when I told him these had to be patterned on him. The look was priceless.

So, from here it is finding the best pattern to use for the braies and then I start hammering out some clothes.